Method of constructing double curtains of trousers



June 16, 1936. B Z D 2,044,236

METHOD OFCONSTRUCTING DOUBLE CURTAINS OF TROUSERS Filed Nov. 21, 1933 ZSnventor 335 i. 024 1? ,5; Zelda;

Patented June 16, 1936 UNE'E'ED STATES FATE T @FFEQE METHOD .OF CONSTRUCTING DOUBLE CURTAINS F TROUSERS 3 Claims.

The present invention relates to a new and useful method of making garments, and more particularly to a new and useful method of constructing mens trousers.

My invention relates more particularly to a novel method of constructing double curtains within the waist-band portions of trousers.

The object of my invention is to provide a more facile and efiicient method of constructing double curtains within the waist-band portions of mens trousers and for securing the pocket portions of the trousers in relation to the curtain of the trousers.

With the above and other objects in view which will appear more fully from the following detailed description, my invention consists of a method whereby the first curtain of the trousers is first united to the cloth of the trousers along the uppermost edge thereof, and. whereby the second curtain is then tacked down throughout the waist-line, engaging one or more plies of the pockets, and wherever the second curtain passes over the pockets and engaging the cloth of the trousers where the curtain is free of the pockets.

My invention further consists of a novel method whereby the second curtain is tacked down by a series of stitches of which only alternate stitches engage the second curtain, and of which alternate stitches engage only the pocket layer or layers or the cloth of the trousers, said stitches being invisible on the outside of the garment.

My invention further consists of other novel steps or features of method which will appear more fully from the following detailed description.

For the purpose of illustrating my invention, I have shown in the accompanying drawing, one form thereof which is at present preferred by me, since the same has been found in practice to give satisfactory and reliable results, although it is to be understood that the various instrumentalities of which my invention consists can be variously arranged and organized and that the invention is not limited to the precise arrangement and organization of the instrumentalities as herein shown and described.

In the accompanying drawing in which like reference characters indicate like parts:

Figure 1 represents a fragmentary perspective view of the garment construction made according to my novel method.

Figure 2 represents a section on line 2-2 of Figure 3, showing the various layers of fabric in relation to the foot and needle guide, and the rotary hook of any suitable vibrating-needle type invisible lock-stitch sewing machine.

Figure 3 represents a top plan view of the needle bar, the double guide channel, foot and needle guide and the rotary hook and bobbin case.

Figure 4 represents a more or less diagrammatic representation of the stitch.

Figure .5 is a view similar to Figure 1 but lacking the pocket plies, showing the curtain tacked directly to the garment fabric.

According to the method of my present invention, a double curtain is first formed of a layer of inner-lining 5 which may be of any suitable more or less stiff material, such as buckram, canvas or the like, and a layer of lining material .6. The lining material .6 is first doubled back upon itself twice along the fold lines I and 8, and. then stitched to the inner lining 5 by means of any suitable row of stitches .9 extending through the three plies of the lining material 6 and also through the inner lining 5 as shown particularly in Figures 1 and 2.

Thereupon, the lining 6 is again folded back upon itself along the fold line Ill, thereby concealing the row of stitches 9 and producing the double curtain.

The two pocket layers II and I2 constitutin the two walls of any of the pockets of the trousers, are then sewn to the cloth I3 of the trousersby means of a line of stitches I l as indicated generally in Figures 1 and 2. Thereupon, the face liner 6 of the curtain is foldedaround the free upper edge I5 of the inner liner (buckram) 5, as at I16, and the cloth is similarly turned inwardly as at IT. The two interlined edge portions of the first curtain I8 are then stitched to each other by a. line of stitches I9 extending through both cloth and first curtain.

Thereupon, the garment is placed on a vibrating-needle type invisible lock-stitch machine (such as the well-known Lewis invisible stitch machine) with the cloth layer I3 of the trousers, as well as the pocket layers II and I2 of the trousers, placed beneath the foot and needle guide 28, but riding over the conventional lift plunger of the-machine (the plunger of the machine is not shown in the drawing), while the edge I of the second curtain 2B rides over one edge of the foot and needle guide 28, to wit, over that edge of the foot and needle guide which contains the left needle channel 2 I being free and clear of the right channel 22. The edge guide 23, adjustable by means of the screw 24, serves to position and maintain the edge I of the second skirt in predetermined relation to the two channels 2| and '22.

In the practice of my invention, I may, for instance, use the now well-known vibrating-needle type of Lewis invisible stitch machine, either the regular or the 2 to .1 type, in which latter type, the lift plunger may be caused alternately to lift to a slightly different extent (as distinguished from the regular Lewis invisible stitch machines), in which the lift of the plunger is the same for successive stitches. Thus, in the now well-known Lewis invisible stitch machine having the 2 to 1 plunger and the vibrating needle, the plunger may be caused to lift successively to two different heights (each height in and of itself, being sepe,

arately adjustable or variable) so that alternate lifts of the plunger (at alternate strokes of the needle) may be made slightly higher or lower compared to the alternate intermediate lifts, so that the needle may be caused to penetrate the pile of fabric layers to different depths at successive strokes with alternate strokes penetrating .to the same depth, whereby successive stitches will extend through different combinations of fabric plies or fabric layers.

For instance, the plunger of the 2 to 1 type Lewis machine is so adjusted as to rise up to an extent suificient to cause the curved needle 25 carried by the needle bar 26 to engage one or both pocket layers H and I2 (Figure 1), wherever the pocket layers pass over the plunger, and to engage the cloth layer 13 (Figure 5), without completely penetrating the same however, wherever the cloth layer alone passes over the plunger (without any pocket layers).

It will be understood that the needle 25 is of .curved and generally arcuate shape, and the needle bar is pivoted and oscilla'tes;with its free end 2'! oscillating in a generally arcuate orbit, so as to cause the needle 25 to enter into and recede from the cloth in a generally arcuate path.

It will also be understood that in the vibratingneedle type machine hereinabove identified, the needle bar 26 and the needle 25 shift laterally to and fro with each successive stroke;the shifting taking place in a direction parallel to the pivotal axis of the movement of the bar and needle. This shifting causes the needle to enter alternately in the channels 2i and 22 of the foot and needle guide 28 on its successive strokes. The material is fed through the machine only upon alternate stitches of the needle.

Thus, on each alternate stroke, the needle enters the edge portion of the second curtain 25! from beneath, coming out on top or on the upper surface of said second curtain, where the needlethread is then interlocked with the bobbin-thread.

On each alternate stroke, however, the needle passes into the channel 22, from where it enters into engagement with the pocket layers I l and I2 or the cloth layer l3, as the case may be, assisted -in this stroke by the simultaneous and timed movement of the plunger;the plunger being inoperative on the alternate strokes of the needle which pass through the channel 2|.

On the strokes of the needle entering the channel 22 and engaging only the pocket layers or the cloth layers, as the case may be, the needle enters the upper surface and comes out at the upper surface at a point removed, and the needlethread is then interlocked with the bobbin-thread. By such alternate engagement of curtain and pocket layers or cloth layer, a series of stitches,

. represented generally by the numerals 29 and 30,

is produced, with the connecting portions serving to interconnect the curtain to the pocket or garment layers.

None of the stitches however, are visible from the outside of the garment.

It will be understood that the present invention .consists of a method, and for this reason, the

structural details of the machine have not been described in greater detail, as such machine may be any conventional machine having the necessary motions as for instance the 2 to 1 type Lewis invisible stitch machine with a vibrating needle or laterally shifting needle, and those skilled in the art are familiar with such machines, and more specific reference thereto may be made by anyone skilled in the art, if desired.

The invention may be embodied in other specific forms without departing from the spirit or essentialattributes thereof, and I therefore desire the present embodiment to be considered in all respects as illustrative and not restrictive, reference being had to the appended claims rather than to the foregoing description to indicate the scope of the invention.

Having thus described my invention, what I hereby claim as new and desire to secure by Letof the face lining of the curtain about the free edge of the inner'lining of the curtain, folding inwardly the free upper edge of the cloth of the trousers, securing said inturned edges to each other by a row of stitches extending through the same, superimposing the second curtain of the double curtain upon the upper terminal portions of the pockets which have been previously tacked to the cloth of the trousers, and tacking the free folded edge portion of the second curtain to the underlying fabric layer by a successive series of alternately shifted stitches;alternate stitches engaging only the curtain and alternate stitches engaging only the pocket or cloth layers, as the case may be, and both said stitches being invisible from without.

2. The method of making trousers which consists in superimposing the lower edge portion of a double curtain upon the upper terminal portions of the pockets of the trousers which have previously been tacked to the cloth of the trousers, and tacking the free folded edge portion of the second curtain to the underlying fabric layer, by alternate series of stitches, of which one series extends only through the folded edge portion of the second curtain, and the other series of which engages only the pocket fabric or the cloth of the trousers, as the case may be, without however, being visible on the outer surface of the cloth.

3. In a waist-band construction of trousers having a pocket, a waist-band having its lower edge secured to the fabric of the pocket or of the trousers on the inside of the garment by a series of zig-zag stitches invisible from without the garment;--alternate of said stitches extending into both the fabric of the pocket or of the trousers as well as through the lower edge of the waist-band, and alternate of said stitches engaging only the fabric of the trousers or of the pocket but not the waist-band, some of the threads of the stitches over-lying said edge of the waist-band, and some of them under-lying the same. 

